【Oku Noto Report (Second Part)】Noto that you want to visit now (Anamizu Town, Noto Town, Suzu City)

After the Noto Peninsula earthquake on New Year's Day, I became keenly aware of the fragmentary nature of Wajima's information reported through the major media. On the evening of the first day in Noto, I headed from Wajima City to Anamizu Town, where the inn was located for the day. (Photo: Mitsuke Island / Suzu City)

From Wajima to the gateway of Okunoto "Anamizu Town"

Anamizu Town is located at the southern end of Okunoto, adjacent to Nanao City in Nakanoto. I had passed by Anamizu Town before, but I had never stayed or toured the area. However, I longed for the sea of anamizu where the unique rias-style coast of the Noto Peninsula and Uchiura spread, and I wanted to try fishing. When fishing on a trip, the atmosphere and atmosphere are more important than the catch.

Arrived at the accommodation "Takigawa". Takigawa is located in the Omachi district of the center of Anamizu Town, a 5-minute walk from Anamizu Station, the last stop of the Noto Railway. There are fewer inns in Anamizu than in other areas, but since it is located in the center of Noto, it can be a hidden gem when you can't find an inn in other areas.

We had about an hour and a half until dinner, so we decided to take a walk around the area. It was getting dark, but I left my intuition to walk around the town. Especially in small towns, you can feel the charm of the town by simply walking rather than relying on the information of your smartphone.

Anamizu Smile Marche

There was a newly built prefabricated one-story building 2~3 minutes walk from the inn. The sign reads, "Anamizu Smile Marche." When I entered, I saw several stores huddled shoulder to shoulder. Among them, only two stores were open.

As I approached, one of the stores was a "Funatsu fishing tackle store". In fact, I had brought a compact rod that folds to 30 cm and a small burakuri device according to my plan to come to Noto, but I had completely forgotten about it. Having found a fishing tackle store, I decided to buy a blue isome. It would be nice if you could find time to fish during your stay.

This building was built by Anamizu Town with a subsidy from the Organization for Small and Medium-sized Enterprises, and it seems that businesses that have had difficulty operating their stores due to the earthquake are occupying them. The owner said with a smile, "The grand opening is on October 6th, but I couldn't wait to open it in advance," which also gave me a warm feeling. In addition, when I bought a blue isome, I received a more expensive squid fishing "egi" as a souvenir.

Next to the fishing tackle shop, a restaurant called "Gangetsu" was open, and when I looked inside, all the seats were filled. The restaurant has been a restaurant since the Meiji era, and the store and residence were completely destroyed by the earthquake on New Year's Day, and the owner stayed in his car while serving food at an evacuation center. After the grand opening, it will be popular as a place of relaxation for residents.

Anami Smile Marche has 9 lots, and in addition to fishing tackle shops and restaurants, there are also clothing stores, beauty salons, bicycle and motorcycle shops, fuel stores, insurance companies, etc.

The grand opening of the Anamizu Smile Marche on October 6 will play an important role in symbolizing the town's recovery.

Western-style confectionery shop "Confectionery Kobo Hanon"

"Confectionery Studio Hanon" is located diagonally across from the Anamizu Smile Marche, and the first floor of the house is a store. It has a cute European-style façade and warm lights illuminate the interior. When I entered the store, I was greeted by the owner, Mr. Takigawa.

The store opened in 2018 and manufactures and sells cookies and cakes made with ingredients from Noto. The store was damaged by the earthquake on New Year's Day, and there was some hesitation about reopening, but with the support of regular customers, it reopened on February 19. Nowadays, customers come not only from the local area, but also from all over Noto in search of Mr. Takikawa's sweets.

On the day of the event, the cakes were already sold out, but various kinds of sweets were lined up. Mr. Takigawa carefully explained the products one by one. Among them, the signature product of soybean flour confectionery is said to have received soybean flour made from soybeans grown by high school students in Ebetsu City, Hokkaido, through volunteers when it became difficult to purchase soybean flour due to the earthquake.

Mr. Takigawa's talk was full of gratitude to the high school students in Ebetsu, the food company that processed the soybeans for free (Ebetsu), and the volunteers who connected them. In the end, I bought the recommended kinako cookies and a sable made with Noto salt and left the store.

Later, when I looked at Hanon's Facebook post, Takigawa always seemed to be grateful to someone.

We went back to the inn because it was almost time for dinner. Takigawa also has a cafeteria, and dinner is served there. During the day, I had three rice bowls and one bean paste, so my hunger was at its peak. The dinner with Noto's seafood was quickly served and I was satisfied.

"Kojushi" in front of Anamizu Station

My stomach was full, but I wanted to stop at one restaurant in the city, so I decided to go to "Sachi Sushi" near Anamizu Station, which I had learned about from the inn. It is said that you can enjoy it at a reasonable price. When I entered the restaurant, I saw two local groups seated. For the time being, 3 kinds of sashimi (hamachi?) , crab meat, bay shellfish) and ordered beer. Especially the authentic bai that I ate for the first time in a long time was delicious.

While chatting with local customers, a couple of men treated me to Japan sake that they had brought. They work for a global parts manufacturer based in Anamizu and live in Anamizu due to a job transfer. One of them was on assignment during the coronavirus pandemic and was stopping at a sushi restaurant on the eve of leaving Anamizu tomorrow. How will he pass on his experience of spending time in the disaster-stricken town of Anamizu in his last year of transfer back to his hometown?

We heard from an elderly man from Anamizu who lives in the area about the situation in the city since the earthquake and torrential rains. I asked questions about the national government, the prefecture, and the governor of Ishikawa Prefecture, and the problems with these organizations deepened even further.

I got a little drunk in this way, so I imitated the orders of the other customers, and finally had cold sake, tuna toro, crab, and conger eel nigiri, and left the restaurant. Tomorrow's schedule is tight, so I have to avoid heavy drinking.

Noto Bar AZ

When I left the store and looked around at the roundabout in front of Anamizu Station, I saw "Noto Bar AZ" with an orange light right next to it. I got lost at the store I had checked in advance, but this time I gave up on entering. It is open until 24 o'clock at night, which is a valuable store in the early night anamizu.

Mr. Niide, the owner of Noto Bar AZ, cooked day and night with his friends after the earthquake on New Year's Day, providing hot meals to residents. After that, he continued to make bento boxes for volunteers and construction workers working in the two cities and two towns of Okunoto.

Morning of the second day in Noto

On the second day, we had breakfast at 7:30 and left the inn early. The first place we headed was Anamizu Port. This is to check the fishing spots. Noto's Uchiura has a rias-style coast, and there are many good fishing spots scattered around because fish tend to gather in the bay.

On the way to Anamizu Port, I drove while looking at the Kosha River, which flows through the center of the city, on my left. The early morning sun shone on the surface of the river, creating an idyllic and beautiful scenery. After taking pictures, as I was heading to the port, I saw a man in a nightgown looking into the river. Is it a routine every morning?

Every morning, he looks at the traffic jams on the main road and thinks, "It's crowded today," but I wonder if the man I mentioned earlier notices the change in the river every morning. It is picturesque to see these locals on the road.

Anamizu Port

Anamizu Port is a large port located in the back of the Rias coast, and there is a lawn "Asunaro Square" behind it. Minato Oasis There are facilities named Minato Oasis in various parts of Noto, which are used as bases for stores and events. The "Wajima Marine Town" introduced in the Oku Noto report (middle part) is one of them.

The quay wall of Anamizu Port was damaged everywhere, and the tip of the embankment was a no-go area. There were a few local anglers in front of the embankment, but it would be a nuisance to enter the narrow fishing spot, so we decided not to fish.

I headed to Anamizu Station again. This is to photograph the "Roadside Station Anamizu" attached to the station. I don't usually pay much attention to "roadside stations" on my trips, but in Noto I want to see them open. Roadside stations are important bases for local businesses to sell their products, and you should definitely visit them. It's not open yet, but it's open for business now.

Anamizu, a symbol of the sea "Bora waiting yagura"

From Anamizu Port, take Route 249 and enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Rias coast. It's tempting to stop and take pictures many times, but there are no permitted parking spaces available, and the number of shooting locations is limited.

We arrived at a spot where you can see the traditional fishing method "Mullet Waiting Yagura". This yagura is said to have withstood earthquakes and is featured in the local media, and is a symbol of Anamizu Town. There are three yaguras in the town, and this time we stopped for a tour called "Nakai Fureai Park". There is a large parking lot and toilets, so you can see and take pictures up close. If you're going to visit Anamizu, you'll want to visit one of the yaguras.

"Noto Winery" has reached the harvest season

After departing from Bora Waiting Yagura, Route 249 continued into the mountains, and I saw a sign for "Noto Wine" along the road. If you go off the national highway a little and follow the mountain road, you will see a winery in the midst of a spreading vineyard.

Noto Wine is a winery that was opened in 2006, and in addition to selling products, you can enjoy factory tours and tastings. Six types of red wine, three types of white wine, three types of rosé and sparkling wine are produced, and you can also buy candy and cakes made with wine, as well as specialties of the Noto Peninsula.

After chatting with the staff for a while in the restaurant, we spent some time looking at the whole area and the vineyards that spread out as one with the blue sky from the same height as the vines.

I bought the red wine "Yama Sauvignon" recommended for Noto wine beginners, red wine candy, and the new rice Koshihikari "Farmer's Proud Rice" made in Anamizu Town. When I got home, I was impressed with the new rice I ate for the first time this year. After all, Noto's rice is delicious. In addition, the red wine has not yet been emptied and is kept for future celebrations.

There are two wineries in Noto. One is Noto wine, and the other is "Heidi Wine", which was cleared in 2012 near the sea in Monzen-cho, Wajima City. Both wineries were damaged by the earthquake. In the heavy rains, Noto Wine was spared, but in Heidi Wine, the road collapsed and the vines were damaged. Both wineries have seen their grape yields plummet, but they are already not stopping this year's wine production.

The stay at the winery was less than 1 hour, but I was able to enjoy the sightseeing feeling. But we have to hurry ahead. Today, we plan to cross Noto Town from Anamizu Town and arrive at Suzu City in the afternoon. According to Google Maps, it takes about one hour to get from Noto Wine to Suzunari Shokudo, the destination in Suzu City.

Gelato "Margar Gelato" that appeared in a satoyama town

After driving for about 20 minutes through the mountains where there was no passing by car, we entered an idyllic satoyama town in the Mizuho area, where the famous gelato shop "Margar Gelato" appeared. In fact, when I was passing by, I saw a staff member crossing the street, and just when I thought, "Is that so?", there was a sign.

It was a store I was planning to stop at, but I felt that I had to hurry, so I tried to pass by for a moment. However, I was surprised that a gelato shop that is highly regarded around the world was located in such a quiet satoyama, so I turned back after about 200 meters.

The shop is located next to a rice field, and it is a place that can be overlooked. Sightseeing buses also seem to come around, and the parking lot is well maintained. Just five minutes before the store opened, a male cyclist was waiting for the store to open.

The owner, Taizo Shibano, is from Noto and won the Best Italian Craftsman Award for two consecutive years in 2015 and 2016. Since then, he has received numerous awards overseas, and in 2018 he became the first Asian ambassador for Italy's global gelato festival, representing the Japan gelato world. Currently, the company has its head office in Noto Town, as well as stores in Nonoichi City and Hakusan City in Ishikawa Prefecture.

Even in everyday life, even if you are in Hokkaido, you almost never eat gelato willingly. However, the gelato here was decidedly different. The gelato made with Noto's natural ingredients was like cooking. The taste is rich and deep, there is no residual milk, and the aftertaste is refreshing.

In addition, it was a sunny and hot day, but the gelato did not drip at all, so I didn't have to worry about my hands. My impression is that I have come across an amazing gelato shop.

While eating gelato, we talked to the staff about life after the earthquake. Anyway, the power and water outages were painful. For about a month, they couldn't get information from TV or radio, and they didn't know what they were in, but "every time there was an aftershock, they evacuated from their seaside home to higher ground, and they were scared in the dark." It took about six months to restore the water supply.

As an aside, I tasted the gelato experience here, and after returning to Tokyo, I tried gelato from a long-established department store in Japanbashi, but I clearly didn't like it. I felt a little regretful that I was sent back to square one.

From here, head north on Route 249 along Uchiura to Noto Pan. I had been interested in this store since I visited Noto Town before, but I didn't have time at that time, so I definitely wanted to visit it this time.

"Noto Bread" (Bread & Cafe) with the sea spreading out in front of you

Our shop was in a great location with the sea in front of us, and there were only a few private houses in the vicinity. In the parking lot, which is a field-like space on the side of the store, there are traces of heavy rain and unevenness on the ground. When I looked at the door of the store, it was closed. However, when I looked inside, there was a person, so I opened the door.

"I'm sorry, I'm closed today to clean the store." When I looked inside the store, I saw that there were traces of mud sweeping on the floor, and I could see at a glance that it was difficult to operate. When I told him why he came to the store, he said of last week's torrential rain, "I was really scared because the water that flowed in from the back mountains rushed in with tremendous force."

Noto Bread prides itself on its bread dough made with Suzu salt, without any preservatives or additives. In addition, vegetables and fruits from Noto are used as ingredients, and we are working on bread making based on the philosophy of local production for local consumption.

In addition, there is a café on the second floor overlooking the sea, where meals such as Thai curry, pizza, and burgers are served. They also focus on homemade drinks, such as brown sugar milk, caramel milk, and local Akasaki strawberry milk.

The store has been cleaned up, new equipment has been installed, and it appears to have reopened on October 12. I didn't get bread this time, but I want to be honest for the third time next time I visit Noto.

To Udezu, Noto Town

After leaving Noto bread, we headed to the Udezu area of Noto Town. When I stayed in Udezu during the Corona disaster, I had a very good impression. At that time, Tokyo was in the midst of the Corona disaster, and Governor Koike's "open and closed policy" caused me stress, and I was able to relax by staying in Noto Town.

This time, I decided to stop by the store I visited at the time again. First, head to "Conseil no To" next to the Noto Town Hall. It is a complex that gathers tourist information, café menus, specialty product sales, a library, conference rooms, and a bus station.

When I asked the staff about the torrential rain, they told me that the river (Yamada River) that flows through the center of the city had burst, and although there was no flooding of the facility itself, a private house in the area a little further away had been flooded. Here, he buys Nishinaka Farm's chili peppers "Dai Spicy Namba" and "Golden Namba" and is currently wrestling with the spicy peppers at dinner every day.

Later, when I passed the "Mohei Cafeteria" where I had eaten lunch before, I was relieved to see people waiting in front of the restaurant. It seems that this area was also damaged by flooding due to heavy rain, but it seems to have resumed. This eatery, which is loved by the residents, is also recommended for tourists, but it can be difficult to choose a menu.

Next, walk along the old highway Uchiura Kaido, where there is a guest house where I once stayed. When I entered the area where the old townscape continued, there was something wrong. You can see at a glance the collapsed buildings in the houses lining the street, but you can see "Collapse Warning" posters on many houses. There may be few houses that are actually inhabited.

To Japan's three largest squid fishing ports "Ogi Port"

The Noto Uchiura Line (No. 35), which runs from Udezu to Ogi, is a scenic route. Ogi is also a port city, and Ogi Port, along with Hakodate and Hachinohe, is counted as one of the three largest squid fishing ports in Japan. However, from last year to this year, there has been a lack of fishing.

The reason for this is that the population of squid coming to the Sea of Japan from the East China Sea is decreasing due to rising water temperatures and changes in ocean currents in the pelagic fishery, according to the Ishikawa Prefectural Fisheries Center. As for inshore fisheries, "the number of fishing vessels that can leave ports is decreasing due to the earthquake," the center said.

We arrived at Ogi Port and came to the front of "Ichibanfune" where we had enjoyed pot-roasted udon and fried oysters before, but it was not open. I thought that it was only open at night before, and I left the place feeling uncomfortable with the state of the building. Later, I heard that the store was closed due to the earthquake.

At the fishing tackle shop "Riiso" at the end of the road, I saw the captain piloting the boat just at the moment when the ferry to the offshore embankment "Higashi Ichimonji Embankment" departed. I miss the fact that I used to use the ferry. The ferry arrived at the offshore embankment in less than 10 minutes, and it is a Class A spot in Noto that fishermen dream of.

 

When I walked into the store and told my mom that I had visited before, the conversation was lively. When asked about his past experiences, he cheerfully says, "I was scared because it was right in front of the sea," but in reality, it was beyond imagination how scary it was. After that, I was led to the front of the shop and pointed to the remaining submerged water on the dock.

Last time, when I thanked the general for driving me from here to Ninety-nine Bay, my mother said, "I'll be back soon," but I had to hurry, so I gave up waiting. When I started the engine of the car, I saw a ship coming back from the sea, so I said goodbye from my seat and left.

In the future, Satoiso will continue to be a ferry for anglers who yearn for Noto's best A-class spot, the Higashi-Ichimonji Embankment.

Kujukuwan specialty "Squid King"

Kujuku Bay, which has been selected as one of the 100 Scenic Views of Japan, is located about 1.5 km from Ogi Port, and this is not a port where fishing boats dock, but a large cove with the characteristics of the Rias coast itself, and a superb view like a lake on a plateau spreads out. Ferry sightseeing around the bay was also popular (currently suspended).

In the cove, there is a souvenir shop, a restaurant, and a "Squid Station Tsukuru Mall" with an explanatory exhibition on squid fishing. And there is a constant talk of the huge object "Squid King" lying nearby.

At the time, "Squid King," which was produced using a local temporary grant during the coronavirus pandemic, was regarded as a problematic way to use the subsidy, and was picked up by major media such as national broadcast information programs, and was criticized by online public opinion and people claiming to be experts in regional revitalization.

After that, the Corona disaster and subsequent began to attract tourists, and it was expected to have an economic ripple effect on the sales of souvenir shops and restaurants.

When Kujuku Bay was damaged by the tsunami in the earthquake on New Year's Day, the "Squid King" was almost unscathed, so the major media reported that the symbol of Noto Town withstood the tsunami.

The other day, an information program featured a special feature on the House of Representatives election in which a political party pledged to double local subsidies, and gave several examples of wasteful spending of local subsidies during the coronavirus pandemic. When the panels were rolled up for each region, I was nervous that the Squid King would be next, but in the end it was not taken up.

There are two possible reasons. Did he think that the director of the program would be criticized for using objects from the disaster area as bad examples, or did he acknowledge the economic effects of Squid King? I digress, but I wanted to introduce the characteristics of major media.

Souvenir corner and restaurant

The "Squid Station Tsukuru Mall" reopened in April with reduced hours. When I headed to the souvenir corner in the facility, it seemed that there were a lot of products lined up at first glance, but I heard that the products of Suzu businesses had not yet returned. Here, I bought a fish sauce made with squid from Ogi Port.

When I looked at the back of the facility, I saw that the staff of the restaurant was working on closing. The restaurant was closed when it first reopened, but it seems to have opened in August. It was a pity that we couldn't taste the famous squid bowl because the business hours had already ended, but it is significant to be able to enjoy that taste now.

Go through the gourmet restaurant you are looking for on a tight schedule

It's already past 2 p.m. From now on, I will head to Suzu and will have to arrive at Noto Airport at 10 a.m. tomorrow morning. Once again, it makes me think that the suspension of afternoon flights may be making access to Noto from the Tokyo metropolitan area farther away.

I couldn't get a decent lunch because I was traveling continuously from the morning, so I bought food at a convenience store on the way. Before entering Noto, there were several restaurants that I wanted to stop at on the way from Kujuku Bay to Suzu. I was aiming for "Kochrysanthemum Katsu Curry", "Restaurant Taiki's Steak Set Meal", and "Neapolitan Dining's Noto Han to Rice". Each of them is located within a distance of about 1 km.

However, even if I had time, I couldn't decide which store to go to. I would like to leave this decision to my next visit to Noto.

Return to the coastline from the inland side and head for Suzu City. When I arrive in Suzu, I plan to stop at the sightseeing spot "Mitsuke Island" first.

Monument of Koiji Coast "Nakano Pastry Shop"

Before entering Suzu City, while driving along the coastline of Noto Town, a seaside parking space appeared that I wanted to pause. There was a "monument on the Koiji Coast" there, and there was a fashionable café "Nakano Pastry Shop" next to it.

When I happen to find a store that is open, I want to enter it without hesitation. There was a large showcase and café space in the store, and I bought cookies to eat while driving. According to the owner, it reopened in May after the earthquake and has been open only on Saturdays and Sundays since then. "I used to be busy because I couldn't take a day off, but now I'm doing it at my own pace, and I'm comfortable with it," he said.

The word "reconstruction" tends to be understood by people outside the disaster area mainly in terms of physical aspects, such as hardware restoration and the introduction of new equipment. However, I felt the will of the store owner to proceed with store operations at a slow pace, while carefully considering new ways of working and services. That seems to make the store more attractive.

On the social media accounts of the confectionery shop, there were many posts of the owner's various thoughts and conflicts, along with reports on the situation after the earthquake and photos of sweets that could not be displayed in the store.

In addition, the "Koiji Coast", named after the myth, was one minute away from the monument of the Koiji Coast, but I was thinking about the pastry shop, so I passed by. I was curious about the popular "Koiji Albaca Curry", but it was also on the next fun list.

Warship Island "Mitsuke Island" in Suzu City

We had already entered Suzu City, and in about 5 minutes we arrived at a seaside park where you can see the natural monument "Mitsuke Island" in Ishikawa Prefecture. After crossing the square, Mitsuke Island appeared.

Mitsuke Island had partially collapsed due to the shaking of the earthquake and the tsunami of about 4 meters. You may not be able to tell from the position where you are visiting, but the part behind it called Warship Island has collapsed significantly. Mitsuke Island is getting smaller every year due to the effects of waves and winds, and the seismic intensity of less than 6 in June 2022, the seismic intensity of 6 in May 23, and the earthquake on New Year's Day this year have further collapsed.

There are a series of private houses along the Uchiura Kaido in Suzu City from Mitsuke Island, but there were houses that collapsed or were partially destroyed by the earthquake. We witnessed collapsed houses in the center of all cities, but Wajima City and Suzu City had the highest number.

Temporary stores "Suzunari Cafeteria" and "Suzu Kitchen"

On the site of "Roadside Station Suzunari" in the center of Suzu City, there is a temporary store "Suzunari Shokudo" and "Suzu Kitchen (bento)" that opened on September 6. This cafeteria was damaged by the earthquake on New Year's Day and was forced to close, and four restaurants (Restaurant Hamanaka, Noriza, Grill Seto, and Shoya no Kan) started a company and started operating jointly.

The temporary store was built by Suzu City using a subsidy from the Organization for Small and Medium Enterprise Innovation. As with temporary housing, it is decided that it will be open for a limited period of two years, and during that time, the people involved will create a foundation for living from the third year.

Since its opening, it has been popular with local residents, volunteers, and reconstruction workers. The cafeteria was closed when I arrived, but I was able to buy a lunch box, which was helpful. It wasn't until breakfast at Anamizu's inn that I finally got to eat. I had lunch in the store.

The bento boxes at Suzu Kitchen are based on the experience of making bento boxes that were provided to victims of evacuation centers after the earthquake.

Suzunari Cafeteria is also open at night on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, but is closed on Sundays. Also, the list of visits for the next time has been increased. The signature menu item "Fukuko Bowl" (2,750 yen) is a luxurious combination of seafood caught in Suzu City and salmon from Minamisanriku in Miyagi Prefecture on top of Koshihikari from Noto. There are 12-13 varieties.

After finishing the meal, I tried to buy souvenirs at the roadside station Suzunari, but it was just at the moment when the closing time of 16 o'clock arrived.

I will return to Tokyo tomorrow morning flight, so there is little time left. From Anamizu Town, we passed through Noto Town and arrived in Suzu City, but it was a difficult schedule. For the first time in a few years, I felt that there was a problem with the current situation where ANA has suspended afternoon flights.

Tonight's inn was without meals, so I thought I would have dinner at a convenience store if there were no restaurants. The Suzunari cafeteria was closed, and the attractive options were reduced. Fortunately, however, I saw an udon shop in front of the station.

Fleeting fishing time and looking for dinner

Before heading to the inn, I remembered the blue isome that I had bought in Anamizu the night before and stored in the trunk, and I took out the rod for 30 minutes at the nearby Takushima fishing port from the roadside station. I caught 5 palm-sized sea bream one after another. Every time you drop a device along the embankment, you get a hit. Next time, I want to enjoy more fishing time.

Tonight, I will take care of the inn "Matsudaso" on the Uchiura Kaido by the sea. As I was sorting out the inside of the car in the parking lot, cars carrying reconstruction workers returned one after another. Reconstruction work seems to be continuing on Sunday. The license plates of the cars were Kanazawa, Nagoya, and Toyota.

After checking in, I went around the area looking for dinner, but the udon shop I was eyeing was closed on Sundays, and the nearest convenience store was closed due to earthquake damage. I headed to the local supermarket, but it was closed at 18:00. There don't seem to be any other restaurants open, and the two convenience stores in the neighborhood are also closed on Sundays, so there's nothing to do.

A public bath with a view of the sea "Kaihin Amida Yu"

On the way back to the inn after giving up dinner, I found a public bath called "Kaihin Amida-yu". In the twilight, there was a striking presence. When I walked in, I saw that a staff member was repairing equipment next to the building, and firewood was piled up behind it. When I asked, I was told that they were repairing equipment that was broken by heavy rains.

The concept of Kaihin Amida Yu is "a public bath with a view of the sea". In December 2023, Mr. Shintani, a former member of the Regional Revitalization Cooperation Volunteers, took over the operation, but an earthquake struck shortly after. I was fortunate that Amidayu used well water. Three weeks later, the public bathhouse reopened and continues to deliver a moment of relief to the victims and supporters.

The well pump was flooded by heavy rains, and it was expected to be closed until the end of September, but shower business was resumed from the 23rd, and the bathtub was restored from the 27th.

Once I returned to the inn, I walked to the public bathhouse. The bath at the inn was used by reconstruction workers, and it seemed that there was a waiting list, so I was grateful for the public bath. Moreover, it is a 5~6 minute walk from the inn.

There were many shoes in the shoe box, and I thought it would be crowded at the time, but the bathers were sparse. There was a separate balustrade with hot water and a balustrade without it, but there was no problem in securing a seat. When I looked at the back of the bathtub, I could see what looked like a sauna. In fact, the bathers were drawn into the sauna.

The sauna is large enough to accommodate 10 people. I felt better about the public bath with a sauna that I found on my trip. The repetition of the bathtub, sauna, cold bath, and starry sky rest area was just pleasant, and I forgot the traces of the earthquake and torrential rain that I saw today.

The power of volunteers is also indispensable for the operation of the facility. Mr. Shintani's enthusiasm, the support of volunteers, and his connections with users who seek public baths are probably the source of his strength. Relief supplies were scattered around Banto, but it was proof that someone from all over the country was supporting Suzu.

After the earthquake, bathers from outside the prefecture will be charged 500 yen with amenities, and a sauna (previously +150 yen) can also be used. Prices are subject to change in the future.

Solving the problem of dinner

It was an early Sunday night in Suzu, but that was not due to the earthquake or heavy rain. It is a cutting-edge area in Noto, and I feel a strong contrast with life in Tokyo. The inn prides itself on its cuisine, but it is currently closed to serving meals. For example, it would be against the rules to ask, "Do you have cup noodles?" and I don't want to say that.

I went back to my room and had a flash of beer while drinking the beer I had stocked for some reason. Speaking of which, the bucket I bought yesterday in Wajima was in the back seat. My belly was swollen from beer, and the big bucket was enough for dinner. The moderately hard skin had a sweet taste, and the inside was chewy and delicious.

After bathing, we drank beer, had dinner, and were grateful to be able to relax at the inn. I went to bed before 10 p.m., thinking about Okunoto, which I had seen and heard on my trip from Wajima to present-day Suzu yesterday.

The morning of the third day in Noto, the scene seen from the beach of Suzu

Last day, September 30. I woke up at 6:00 and took a walk on the beach behind the inn. The fact that a tsunami struck here is unbelievable, and the calm sea spreads. As I was looking out at the sea, I heard a neighbor's uncle calling my dog's name several times from behind me.

When I turned around, I saw a scene where the dog ran towards the aunt who was standing with her arms outstretched. An uncle who could be seen a few doors away could be heard shouting, "That's why you can't do it!" It would be interesting if this was repeated every morning.

Google Maps says it takes about 45 minutes from the inn to Noto Airport, but considering the one-way one-way road conditions, I would like to see it for an hour from here. Still, it seems that you can visit the "Blue Cave" in the opposite direction from the airport. It takes about 40 minutes from the inn to the cave. If you go and come back, you can arrive at Noto Airport by 10 o'clock.

Blue Grotto and Lamp Inn

The Blue Cave near the tip of the Noto Peninsula is one of Japan's three major power spots. It was such a popular spot that admission was restricted during the holidays last year and in the summer. By the way, the other two seem to be Mt. Fuji and Branch Pass (Nagano Prefecture).

The place where the cave is located is called the "Cape of the Sanctuary" and has the famous "Lamp Inn", an observatory, and a shop. It was founded during the Warring States period and is operated by a company run by the 14th generation. The inn damaged by the earthquake is aiming to reopen by the end of the year. Due to heavy rains, the cave, observatory, and shop were temporarily closed, but they resumed business on September 29.

I couldn't climb the observatory because it was before business hours, but I actually saw the lamp inn that I had often seen in the photo and left the place.

The time is 8:30. In the calculation, there is about 30 minutes to spare, so the most advanced " of the peninsula " Lugo Sai Lighthouse I decided to go there. Suddenly, however, the navigation system began to stray and I felt that I was in danger, so I turned back in front of the lighthouse.

In the end, I arrived at Noto Airport at 10:00 and returned to Tokyo on a 10:50 flight.

In this stay in Okunoto, there are still many places that I can't go around. He also wants to make plans to enter Noto.

Records around Noto Airport

After the trip to Oku Noto

In the areas I visited in Okunoto, there were almost no residents, reconstruction workers, or volunteers. I saw a few photographers in the center of Wajima City, but I didn't see them in Noto Town or Suzu City. Of course, it could be the week after the downpours.

If you want to support Noto or interact with people, you don't necessarily need to come as a volunteer. If you don't feel comfortable with the words "tourism" or "travel," just "visit."

If you don't have a big problem postponing your travel plans for next week or next month, why not visit Noto at that time?

In the three-part Oku Noto Report, we delivered the Oku Noto Report in order to convey that there are many places that travelers should visit in Noto today. In the future, we look forward to the dissemination of information from people visiting Noto.