【Oku Noto Report (Second Part)】Noto that you want to visit now (Anamizu Town, Noto Town, Suzu City)
After the Noto Peninsula earthquake on New Year's Day, I became keenly aware of the fragmentary nature of Wajima's information reported through the major media. On the evening of the first day in Noto, I headed from Wajima City to Anamizu Town, where the inn was located for the day. (Photo: Mitsuke Island / Suzu City)
From Wajima to the gateway of Okunoto "Anamizu Town"
Anamizu Town is located at the southern end of Okunoto, adjacent to Nanao City in Nakanoto. I had passed by Anamizu Town before, but I had never stayed or toured the area. However, I longed for the sea of anamizu where the unique rias-style coast of the Noto Peninsula and Uchiura spread, and I wanted to try fishing. When fishing on a trip, the atmosphere and atmosphere are more important than the catch.
Arrived at the accommodation "Takigawa". Takigawa is located in the Omachi district of the center of Anamizu Town, a 5-minute walk from Anamizu Station, the last stop of the Noto Railway. There are fewer inns in Anamizu than in other areas, but since it is located in the center of Noto, it can be a hidden gem when you can't find an inn in other areas.
We had about an hour and a half until dinner, so we decided to take a walk around the area. It was getting dark, but I left my intuition to walk around the town. Especially in small towns, you can feel the charm of the town by simply walking rather than relying on the information of your smartphone.
Anamizu Smile Marche
There was a newly built prefabricated one-story building 2~3 minutes walk from the inn. The sign reads, "Anamizu Smile Marche." When I entered, I saw several stores huddled shoulder to shoulder. Among them, only two stores were open.
As I approached, one of the stores was a "Funatsu fishing tackle store". In fact, I had brought a compact rod that folds to 30 cm and a small burakuri device according to my plan to come to Noto, but I had completely forgotten about it. Having found a fishing tackle store, I decided to buy a blue isome. It would be nice if you could find time to fish during your stay.
This building was built by Anamizu Town with a subsidy from the Organization for Small and Medium-sized Enterprises, and it seems that businesses that have had difficulty operating their stores due to the earthquake are occupying them. The owner said with a smile, "The grand opening is on October 6th, but I couldn't wait to open it in advance," which also gave me a warm feeling. In addition, when I bought a blue isome, I received a more expensive squid fishing "egi" as a souvenir.
Next to the fishing tackle shop, a restaurant called "Gangetsu" was open, and when I looked inside, all the seats were filled. The restaurant has been a restaurant since the Meiji era, and the store and residence were completely destroyed by the earthquake on New Year's Day, and the owner stayed in his car while serving food at an evacuation center. After the grand opening, it will be popular as a place of relaxation for residents.
Anami Smile Marche has 9 lots, and in addition to fishing tackle shops and restaurants, there are also clothing stores, beauty salons, bicycle and motorcycle shops, fuel stores, insurance companies, etc.
The grand opening of the Anamizu Smile Marche on October 6 will play an important role in symbolizing the town's recovery.
Western-style confectionery shop "Confectionery Kobo Hanon"
"Confectionery Studio Hanon" is located diagonally across from the Anamizu Smile Marche, and the first floor of the house is a store. It has a cute European-style façade and warm lights illuminate the interior. When I entered the store, I was greeted by the owner, Mr. Takigawa.
The store opened in 2018 and manufactures and sells cookies and cakes made with ingredients from Noto. The store was damaged by the earthquake on New Year's Day, and there was some hesitation about reopening, but with the support of regular customers, it reopened on February 19. Nowadays, customers come not only from the local area, but also from all over Noto in search of Mr. Takikawa's sweets.
On the day of the event, the cakes were already sold out, but various kinds of sweets were lined up. Mr. Takigawa carefully explained the products one by one. Among them, the signature product of soybean flour confectionery is said to have received soybean flour made from soybeans grown by high school students in Ebetsu City, Hokkaido, through volunteers when it became difficult to purchase soybean flour due to the earthquake.
Mr. Takigawa's talk was full of gratitude to the high school students in Ebetsu, the food company that processed the soybeans for free (Ebetsu), and the volunteers who connected them. In the end, I bought the recommended kinako cookies and a sable made with Noto salt and left the store.
Later, when I looked at Hanon's Facebook post, Takigawa always seemed to be grateful to someone.
We went back to the inn because it was almost time for dinner. Takigawa also has a cafeteria, and dinner is served there. During the day, I had three rice bowls and one bean paste, so my hunger was at its peak. The dinner with Noto's seafood was quickly served and I was satisfied.
"Kojushi" in front of Anamizu Station
My stomach was full, but I wanted to stop at one restaurant in the city, so I decided to go to "Sachi Sushi" near Anamizu Station, which I had learned about from the inn. It is said that you can enjoy it at a reasonable price. When I entered the restaurant, I saw two local groups seated. For the time being, 3 kinds of sashimi (hamachi?) , crab meat, bay shellfish) and ordered beer. Especially the authentic bai that I ate for the first time in a long time was delicious.
While chatting with local customers, a couple of men treated me to Japan sake that they had brought. They work for a global parts manufacturer based in Anamizu and live in Anamizu due to a job transfer. One of them was on assignment during the coronavirus pandemic and was stopping at a sushi restaurant on the eve of leaving Anamizu tomorrow. How will he pass on his experience of spending time in the disaster-stricken town of Anamizu in his last year of transfer back to his hometown?
We heard from an elderly man from Anamizu who lives in the area about the situation in the city since the earthquake and torrential rains. I asked questions about the national government, the prefecture, and the governor of Ishikawa Prefecture, and the problems with these organizations deepened even further.
I got a little drunk in this way, so I imitated the orders of the other customers, and finally had cold sake, tuna toro, crab, and conger eel nigiri, and left the restaurant. Tomorrow's schedule is tight, so I have to avoid heavy drinking.
Noto Bar AZ
When I left the store and looked around at the roundabout in front of Anamizu Station, I saw "Noto Bar AZ" with an orange light right next to it. I got lost at the store I had checked in advance, but this time I gave up on entering. It is open until 24 o'clock at night, which is a valuable store in the early night anamizu.
Mr. Niide, the owner of Noto Bar AZ, cooked day and night with his friends after the earthquake on New Year's Day, providing hot meals to residents. After that, he continued to make bento boxes for volunteers and construction workers working in the two cities and two towns of Okunoto.
| Noto Bar AZ(Lunch 11:00~14:00, Evening 17:00~24:00, Irregular holidays) |
Takigawa Shokudo(12:00~14:00, closed on Sundays)
Morning of the second day in Noto
On the second day, we had breakfast at 7:30 and left the inn early. The first place we headed was Anamizu Port. This is to check the fishing spots. Noto's Uchiura has a rias-style coast, and there are many good fishing spots scattered around because fish tend to gather in the bay.
On the way to Anamizu Port, I drove while looking at the Kosha River, which flows through the center of the city, on my left. The early morning sun shone on the surface of the river, creating an idyllic and beautiful scenery. After taking pictures, as I was heading to the port, I saw a man in a nightgown looking into the river. Is it a routine every morning?
自身は毎朝、幹線道路の渋滞を見ながら、「今日も混んでいるな」とさえ思わないが、先ほどの男性は毎朝、川の変化に気づいているのだろうか。旅先のこうした地元の人の姿は絵になる。
Anamizu Port
Anamizu Port is a large port located in the back of the Rias coast, and there is a lawn "Asunaro Square" behind it.Minato OasisThere are facilities named Minato Oasis in various parts of Noto, which are used as bases for stores and events. The "Wajima Marine Town" introduced in the Oku Noto report (middle part) is one of them.
The quay wall of Anamizu Port was damaged everywhere, and the tip of the embankment was a no-go area. There were a few local anglers in front of the embankment, but it would be a nuisance to enter the narrow fishing spot, so we decided not to fish.
I headed to Anamizu Station again. This is to photograph the "Roadside Station Anamizu" attached to the station. I don't usually pay much attention to "roadside stations" on my trips, but in Noto I want to see them open. Roadside stations are important bases for local businesses to sell their products, and you should definitely visit them. It's not open yet, but it's open for business now.
Anamizu, a symbol of the sea "Bora waiting yagura"
From Anamizu Port, take Route 249 and enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Rias coast. It's tempting to stop and take pictures many times, but there are no permitted parking spaces available, and the number of shooting locations is limited.
伝統漁法「ボラ待ちやぐら」が見れるスポットに到着した。このやぐらは地震にも耐えたと地元メディアで取り上げられる、穴水町の象徴だ。町内には３カ所にやぐらがあり、今回は「中居ふれあいパーク」という見学者向けの広い駐車場に停車した。トイレが完備されており、やぐら間近で見学と撮影ができる。穴水に訪れるなら、いずれかのやぐらを見学したい。
"Noto Winery" has reached the harvest season
After departing from Bora Waiting Yagura, Route 249 continued into the mountains, and I saw a sign for "Noto Wine" along the road. If you go off the national highway a little and follow the mountain road, you will see a winery in the midst of a spreading vineyard.
Noto Wine is a winery that was opened in 2006, and in addition to selling products, you can enjoy factory tours and tastings. Six types of red wine, three types of white wine, three types of rosé and sparkling wine are produced, and you can also buy candy and cakes made with wine, as well as specialties of the Noto Peninsula.
After chatting with the staff for a while in the restaurant, we spent some time looking at the whole area and the vineyards that spread out as one with the blue sky from the same height as the vines.
能登ワイン初心者にお薦めの赤ワイン「ヤマソーヴィニヨン」と赤ワインの飴、穴水町で作られた新米こしひかり「農家自慢のお米」を購入した。帰宅後、今年初めて食べた新米には感動した。やはり能登の米は美味い。赤ワインはまだ空けずに今後のお祝いの日にキープしている。
能登にはワイナリーが2カ所ある。1つは能登ワインで、もう1つ2012年に輪島市門前町の海の近くに開墾された「ハイディーワイン」だ。どちらのワイナリーも地震の被害を受けた。豪雨では、能登ワインは被害を免れたが、ハイディーワインは道路が崩れ、ぶどうの樹にもダメージがあった。いずれのワイナリーもぶどうの収穫量は激減したが、今年のワイン生産の手は休めていない。
The stay at the winery was less than 1 hour, but I was able to enjoy the sightseeing feeling. But we have to hurry ahead. Today, we plan to cross Noto Town from Anamizu Town and arrive at Suzu City in the afternoon. According to Google Maps, it takes about one hour to get from Noto Wine to Suzunari Shokudo, the destination in Suzu City.
Gelato "Margar Gelato" that appeared in a satoyama town
After driving for about 20 minutes through the mountains where there was no passing by car, we entered an idyllic satoyama town in the Mizuho area, where the famous gelato shop "Margar Gelato" appeared. In fact, when I was passing by, I saw a staff member crossing the street, and just when I thought, "Is that so?", there was a sign.
It was a store I was planning to stop at, but I felt that I had to hurry, so I tried to pass by for a moment. However, I was surprised that a gelato shop that is highly regarded around the world was located in such a quiet satoyama, so I turned back after about 200 meters.
店は田んぼのそばにポツンとあり、見過ごすような場所だ。観光バスも回ってくるようで、駐車場は整備されている。ちょうど開店5分前、サイクリストの男性1人が開店を待っていた。
オーナーの柴野太造氏は能登町出身で、2015年と2016年に2年連続でイタリア最優秀職人賞を獲得。その後も海外で数々の賞を受け、2018年にはイタリアの世界的ジェラートフェスティバルでアジア人初の大使に就任した日本のジェラート界を代表する人物だ。現在、能登町に本店を構え、石川県の野々市市と白山市にも店舗を構えている。
Even in everyday life, even if you are in Hokkaido, you almost never eat gelato willingly. However, the gelato here was decidedly different. The gelato made with Noto's natural ingredients was like cooking. The taste is rich and deep, there is no residual milk, and the aftertaste is refreshing.
In addition, it was a sunny and hot day, but the gelato did not drip at all, so I didn't have to worry about my hands. My impression is that I have come across an amazing gelato shop.
ジェラートを食べながら、スタッフに地震後の生活について話を聞いた。とにかく、停電と断水が辛かったようだ。約1カ月間、テレビやラジオから情報が得られず、自分たちの置かれている状況が分からない中、「余震が起こるたびに海辺の自宅から高台へ避難していた、暗闇の中で怖かった」という。水道の復旧には約半年を要した。
余談だが、ここでのジェラート体験に味をしめて、東京に戻ってから日本橋の老舗百貨店でジェラートを試してみたが、明らかに好みではなかった。どこか振り出しに戻されたようで少々後悔した。
From here, head north on Route 249 along Uchiura to Noto Pan. I had been interested in this store since I visited Noto Town before, but I didn't have time at that time, so I definitely wanted to visit it this time.
"Noto Bread" (Bread & Cafe) with the sea spreading out in front of you
同店は目の前に海が広がる素晴らしいロケーションにあり、周辺には民家がいくつかあるだけだった。店の脇にある畑のようなスペースの駐車場には、豪雨の跡が残り、地面に凸凹が残っている。店の扉を見ると閉店していた。しかし、中を覗くと人がいたので、扉を開けてみた。
"I'm sorry, I'm closed today to clean the store." When I looked inside the store, I saw that there were traces of mud sweeping on the floor, and I could see at a glance that it was difficult to operate. When I told him why he came to the store, he said of last week's torrential rain, "I was really scared because the water that flowed in from the back mountains rushed in with tremendous force."
Noto Bread prides itself on its bread dough made with Suzu salt, without any preservatives or additives. In addition, vegetables and fruits from Noto are used as ingredients, and we are working on bread making based on the philosophy of local production for local consumption.
さらに、２階には海を一望できるカフェがあり、タイカレーやピザ、バーガーなどの食事が提供されている。黒糖ミルクやキャラメルミルク、地元の赤崎いちごのミルクなど、自家製ドリンクにも力を入れている。地元で愛されるパン屋である一方、観光客にとっても目的地にしたくなるパン屋だ。
The store has been cleaned up, new equipment has been installed, and it appears to have reopened on October 12. I didn't get bread this time, but I want to be honest for the third time next time I visit Noto.
To Udezu, Noto Town
能登パンを後にして、能登町の宇出津地域へ向かう。コロナ禍、宇出津に滞在したとき、非常によい印象を持った。その頃の都内はコロナ禍で、小池都知事の「頻繁な開け閉め政策」によりストレスが溜まっていたが、能登町での滞在でリラックスできた記憶が残る。
今回、当時訪れた店に再び寄ることにした。まず、能登町役場横にある「コンセールのと」へ向かう。観光案内やカフェメニュー、特産品販売、図書館や会議室、バスの発着所などが集まる複合施設だ。
スタッフに豪雨について尋ねると、街の中心を流れる川（山田川）が決壊して、施設自体への浸水は無かったが、少し向こうのエリアの民家が浸水の被害にあったとのことだった。
ここでは、西中農園の唐辛子「大辛なんば」と「黄金なんば」を購入し、現在、日々の夕食で激辛と格闘している。
その後前回ランチを食べた「茂平食堂」を通ると、店の前に人が待っていて安心した。こちらも豪雨で浸水の被害にあったらしいが再開したようだ。住民で愛されているこの食堂は、旅行者にとってもおすすめだが、メニュー選びに困ることだろう。
| Maoping Canteen（11:00〜20:00/L.O19:40、不定休） |
続いて、かつて宿泊した民宿がある旧街道の内浦海道を歩く。古い街並みが続くエリアに入ると、何か違和感があった。通りに並ぶ住宅で、見た目が倒壊している建物は一目で分かるが、数多くの家屋に「倒壊注意」の貼り紙を見かける。実際に人が住んでいる家屋は少ないのかもしれない。
To Japan's three largest squid fishing ports "Ogi Port"
The Noto Uchiura Line (No. 35), which runs from Udezu to Ogi, is a scenic route. Ogi is also a port city, and Ogi Port, along with Hakodate and Hachinohe, is counted as one of the three largest squid fishing ports in Japan. However, from last year to this year, there has been a lack of fishing.
その原因として、遠洋漁業では「水温上昇と海流の変化で、東シナ海から日本海にやってくるイカの個体量が減っていること」（石川県水産総合センター）。近海漁業では「地震の影響で出港ができる漁船が減少している」（同センター）という。
We arrived at Ogi Port and came to the front of "Ichibanfune" where we had enjoyed pot-roasted udon and fried oysters before, but it was not open. I thought that it was only open at night before, and I left the place feeling uncomfortable with the state of the building. Later, I heard that the store was closed due to the earthquake.
At the fishing tackle shop "Riiso" at the end of the road, I saw the captain piloting the boat just at the moment when the ferry to the offshore embankment "Higashi Ichimonji Embankment" departed. I miss the fact that I used to use the ferry. The ferry arrived at the offshore embankment in less than 10 minutes, and it is a Class A spot in Noto that fishermen dream of.
店内に入り、以前訪れたことをお母さんに告げると話が弾んだ。これまでのことについて話を聞くと、「ほらっ海の目の前だから怖かった」と明るく話すが、実際はどれほど怖い体験だったのか想像を超える。その後、店の前に案内され、船着き場に残る水没を指さした。
Last time, when I thanked the general for driving me from here to Ninety-nine Bay, my mother said, "I'll be back soon," but I had to hurry, so I gave up waiting. When I started the engine of the car, I saw a ship coming back from the sea, so I said goodbye from my seat and left.
In the future, Satoiso will continue to be a ferry for anglers who yearn for Noto's best A-class spot, the Higashi-Ichimonji Embankment.
Kujukuwan specialty "Squid King"
Kujuku Bay, which has been selected as one of the 100 Scenic Views of Japan, is located about 1.5 km from Ogi Port, and this is not a port where fishing boats dock, but a large cove with the characteristics of the Rias coast itself, and a superb view like a lake on a plateau spreads out. Ferry sightseeing around the bay was also popular (currently suspended).
In the cove, there is a souvenir shop, a restaurant, and a "Squid Station Tsukuru Mall" with an explanatory exhibition on squid fishing. And there is a constant talk of the huge object "Squid King" lying nearby.
コロナ禍に地方臨時交付金を利用して製作された「イカキング」は、当時、交付金の使い方として問題視され、全国放送の情報番組など大手メディアが取り上げ、ネット世論や地方創生の専門家を名乗る人物などから批判を受けた。
After that, the Corona disaster and subsequent began to attract tourists, and it was expected to have an economic ripple effect on the sales of souvenir shops and restaurants.
When Kujuku Bay was damaged by the tsunami in the earthquake on New Year's Day, the "Squid King" was almost unscathed, so the major media reported that the symbol of Noto Town withstood the tsunami.
The other day, an information program featured a special feature on the House of Representatives election in which a political party pledged to double local subsidies, and gave several examples of wasteful spending of local subsidies during the coronavirus pandemic. When the panels were rolled up for each region, I was nervous that the Squid King would be next, but in the end it was not taken up.
考えられる理由は2つある。番組ディレクターが被災地のオブジェを悪い例として取り上げることに批判が集まると考えたか、あるいはイカキングの経済効果を認めたからか。話が脱線したが、大手メディアの特徴を紹介したかった。
Souvenir corner and restaurant
「イカの駅つくモール」は4月に時短営業で再開した。施設内のお土産コーナーに向かうと、一見商品が豊富に並んでいるようにも見えたが、まだ珠洲の事業者の商品が戻ってきていないと聞いた。ここでは小木港産のイカを使った魚醤油を購入した。
施設の奥を見ると、レストランでスタッフが閉店作業をしていた。再開当初、レストランは休業していたが8月営業を始めたようだ。すでに営業時間が終了しており、名物のイカ丼を味わえなかったのは残念だったが、今あの味を楽しめることの意義は大きい。
・Restaurant (11:00~14:00/L.O 13:30, closed on Wednesdays)
Go through the gourmet restaurant you are looking for on a tight schedule
It's already past 2 p.m. From now on, I will head to Suzu and will have to arrive at Noto Airport at 10 a.m. tomorrow morning. Once again, it makes me think that the suspension of afternoon flights may be making access to Noto from the Tokyo metropolitan area farther away.
I couldn't get a decent lunch because I was traveling continuously from the morning, so I bought food at a convenience store on the way. Before entering Noto, there were several restaurants that I wanted to stop at on the way from Kujuku Bay to Suzu. I was aiming for "Kochrysanthemum Katsu Curry", "Restaurant Taiki's Steak Set Meal", and "Neapolitan Dining's Noto Han to Rice". Each of them is located within a distance of about 1 km.
However, even if I had time, I couldn't decide which store to go to. I would like to leave this decision to my next visit to Noto.
Return to the coastline from the inland side and head for Suzu City. When I arrive in Suzu, I plan to stop at the sightseeing spot "Mitsuke Island" first.
Monument of Koiji Coast "Nakano Pastry Shop"
Before entering Suzu City, while driving along the coastline of Noto Town, a seaside parking space appeared that I wanted to pause. There was a "monument on the Koiji Coast" there, and there was a fashionable café "Nakano Pastry Shop" next to it.
偶然オープンしている店を見つけた際は、迷わず入ってみたい。店内には大きなショーケースとカフェスペースがあり、運転中に食べるクッキーを購入した。店主に話を聞くと、地震の後、5月に再開し、それ以来、土日曜日限定で営業しているとのこと。「以前は休みも取れず忙しかったのですが、今はマイペースでやっていて、しっくりきています」と教えてくれた。
The word "reconstruction" tends to be understood by people outside the disaster area mainly in terms of physical aspects, such as hardware restoration and the introduction of new equipment. However, I felt the will of the store owner to proceed with store operations at a slow pace, while carefully considering new ways of working and services. That seems to make the store more attractive.
なかの洋菓子店のSNSを見ると、地震の後の状況報告や、店頭に並べられないスイーツの写真と共に、店主のさまざまな思いや葛藤が数多く投稿されていた。
神話にちなんで名づけられた「恋路海岸」は、恋路海岸の碑から1分の距離にあったが、洋菓子店のことを考えていたため、通り過ぎていた。評判の「恋路アルバカカレー」が気になっていたが、これまた次回のお楽しみリストにはいった。
Warship Island "Mitsuke Island" in Suzu City
We had already entered Suzu City, and in about 5 minutes we arrived at a seaside park where you can see the natural monument "Mitsuke Island" in Ishikawa Prefecture. After crossing the square, Mitsuke Island appeared.
見附島は地震の揺れと約4メートルの津波により一部が崩落していた。見学する位置から見る島だと分からないかもしれないが、軍艦島と呼ばれるその後方部分が大きく崩れた。島は年々波風の影響で小さくなっていて、2022年6月の震度6弱、23年５月の震度６強、今年元旦の地震で、さらに崩落が進んだ。
There are a series of private houses along the Uchiura Kaido in Suzu City from Mitsuke Island, but there were houses that collapsed or were partially destroyed by the earthquake. We witnessed collapsed houses in the center of all cities, but Wajima City and Suzu City had the highest number.
Temporary stores "Suzunari Cafeteria" and "Suzu Kitchen"
On the site of "Roadside Station Suzunari" in the center of Suzu City, there is a temporary store "Suzunari Shokudo" and "Suzu Kitchen (bento)" that opened on September 6. This cafeteria was damaged by the earthquake on New Year's Day and was forced to close, and four restaurants (Restaurant Hamanaka, Noriza, Grill Seto, and Shoya no Kan) started a company and started operating jointly.
・Suzu Kitchen (5:00~15:00 *Ends as soon as sold out)
The temporary store was built by Suzu City using a subsidy from the Organization for Small and Medium Enterprise Innovation. As with temporary housing, it is decided that it will be open for a limited period of two years, and during that time, the people involved will create a foundation for living from the third year.
Since its opening, it has been popular with local residents, volunteers, and reconstruction workers. The cafeteria was closed when I arrived, but I was able to buy a lunch box, which was helpful. It wasn't until breakfast at Anamizu's inn that I finally got to eat. I had lunch in the store.
「すずキッチン」のお弁当は、地震の後、避難所の被災者に提供されていたお弁当作りの流れを汲んでいる。
すずなり食堂は木金土曜日は夜営業も行っているが、日曜日は休業とのこと。また次回の訪問リストが増えた。看板メニューの「福幸丼」（2,750円）は、能登産のコシヒカリの上に、珠洲市で水揚げされた魚介と宮城県南三陸産のサーモンが贅沢に組み合わされた一品。12〜13種類の魚を使っている。
After finishing the meal, I tried to buy souvenirs at the roadside station Suzunari, but it was just at the moment when the closing time of 16 o'clock arrived.
明日午前便で東京に戻るため、残された時間はわずか。穴水町から能登町を経て、珠洲市に到着したが難しいスケジュールだった。これで何回目か、ANAが午後便を運休している現状に問題があると感じた。
今晩の宿は素泊まりのため、夕食は、飲食店が無ければコンビニでもと思っていた。すずなり食堂が休みで、魅力的な選択肢が減ってしまった。しかし幸い、駅前でうどん店の看板を目にしていた。
Fleeting fishing time and looking for dinner
Before heading to the inn, I remembered the blue isome that I had bought in Anamizu the night before and stored in the trunk, and I took out the rod for 30 minutes at the nearby Takushima fishing port from the roadside station. I caught 5 palm-sized sea bream one after another. Every time you drop a device along the embankment, you get a hit. Next time, I want to enjoy more fishing time.
Tonight, I will take care of the inn "Matsudaso" on the Uchiura Kaido by the sea. As I was sorting out the inside of the car in the parking lot, cars carrying reconstruction workers returned one after another. Reconstruction work seems to be continuing on Sunday. The license plates of the cars were Kanazawa, Nagoya, and Toyota.
チェックインを済ませ、夕食を探して周辺を回ったが、目を付けていたうどん店は日曜定休日、さらに最寄りのコンビニは地震被害で休業中だった。地元スーパーに向かったが、ちょうど18:00に閉店していた。他に開いている飲食店は無さそうで、近隣の2店舗のコンビニも日曜は定休日で打つ手がない。
A public bath with a view of the sea "Kaihin Amida Yu"
On the way back to the inn after giving up dinner, I found a public bath called "Kaihin Amida-yu". In the twilight, there was a striking presence. When I walked in, I saw that a staff member was repairing equipment next to the building, and firewood was piled up behind it. When I asked, I was told that they were repairing equipment that was broken by heavy rains.
The concept of Kaihin Amida Yu is "a public bath with a view of the sea". In December 2023, Mr. Shintani, a former member of the Regional Revitalization Cooperation Volunteers, took over the operation, but an earthquake struck shortly after. I was fortunate that Amidayu used well water. Three weeks later, the public bathhouse reopened and continues to deliver a moment of relief to the victims and supporters.
The well pump was flooded by heavy rains, and it was expected to be closed until the end of September, but shower business was resumed from the 23rd, and the bathtub was restored from the 27th.
一度宿戻り、歩いて銭湯に向かった。宿の風呂は復興作業員が利用していて順番待ちしそうだったので、近くの銭湯はありがたい。宿から歩いて5～6分の距離だ。
There were many shoes in the shoe box, and I thought it would be crowded at the time, but the bathers were sparse. There was a separate balustrade with hot water and a balustrade without it, but there was no problem in securing a seat. When I looked at the back of the bathtub, I could see what looked like a sauna. In fact, the bathers were drawn into the sauna.
サウナは10名入れる大きさ。旅先で見つけたサウナ付きの銭湯に気分が上がった。湯船とサウナ、水風呂、星空休憩所の繰り返しはただ気持ちよく、今日見た地震や豪雨の跡を忘れていた。
施設運営にはボランティア有志の力も欠かせない。新谷さんの熱意とボランティアの支援、銭湯を求める利用者とのつながりが力の源になっているのだろう。番頭の周辺には支援物資が雑然と置かれていた。全国の誰かが珠洲を支援している証しを目にした。
入浴料は県外の入浴者はアメニティ付きで500円、サウナは+150円で利用できた。
Solving the problem of dinner
珠洲の日曜日、夜は早かったが、それは地震や豪雨の影響というわけではない。能登の最先端の地であり、東京の生活とのコントラストを強く感じる。本来は料理自慢の宿でもあるが、現在は食事の提供は休止している。だからこそ、「カップ麺ありませんか」と尋ねるようなことは失礼だと思った。
部屋に戻り、何故かストックしていたビールを飲みながら閃いた。そういえば、昨日輪島で購入したバケットが後部座席にあった。ビールで腹が膨らんでいて、大きなバケットは夕食として十分だった。ほどよく固い皮は甘みがあり、中はもっちりしていて美味かった。輪島の幸に助けられた。
結局、銭湯で湯につかりサウナを楽しみ、宿に戻ってからビールを飲み、夕食を食べることもできた。今晩、宿でゆっくり過ごせることに感謝した。昨日の輪島から現在の珠洲までの旅の間に見聞きした奥能登について思いを巡らせながら、夜10時前には就寝した。
The morning of the third day in Noto, the scene seen from the beach of Suzu
最終日9月30日。6:00に起床し、宿の裏手にある浜辺を散歩した。ここに津波が襲ったという事実が信じられないほど、静かな海が広がっている。海を眺めていると、背後から近所のおじさんがワンコの名前を何度も呼ぶ声が聞こえてきた。
振り返ると、手を広げて立っているおばさんところに向かって、ワンコが走っている光景が見えた。数軒先に立つおじさんは、「だから駄目って！」と叫んでいた。これが毎朝繰り返されていたら実に面白い。ワンコは気持ちを和ませてくれる。
宿から能登空港まではGoogleマップだと約45分と出ているが、片道一車線の道路状況も考慮し、ここから1時間は見ておきたい。それでも、空港とは逆方向の「青の洞窟」まで行ける。宿から洞窟まで約40分。行って戻ってきて10時には能登空港に到着できそうだ。
Blue Grotto and Lamp Inn
能登半島の先端近くの「青の洞窟」は、日本三大パワースポットの一つだ。昨年の連休や夏には入場制限がかかるほど人気のスポットだった。ちなみに他の2カ所は富士山と長野県の分岐峠らしい。
洞窟のある場所は、「聖域の岬」と呼ばれ、有名な「ランプの宿」や展望台、売店などがある。戦国時代に創業され、14代目が経営する企業により運営されている。地震で被災した宿は年内のリニューアルオーオープンを目指している。豪雨の影響で洞窟や展望台、売店は一時休業していたが、9月29日から営業を再開した。
営業時間前だったので展望台には登れなかったが、写真でよく見ていた宿を実際に眺めることができた。
時間は8:30。計算上30分ほど余裕があるため、半島最先端の「Lugo Sai Lighthouse」に向かった。しかし、急にナビが迷走し始めて危険を感じたため、灯台の手前で引き返した。結局、能登空港には10:00に到着し、10:50の便で東京へ戻った。
In this stay in Okunoto, there are still many places that I can't go around. He also wants to make plans to enter Noto.
Records around Noto Airport
After the trip to Oku Noto
In the areas I visited in Okunoto, there were almost no residents, reconstruction workers, or volunteers. I saw a few photographers in the center of Wajima City, but I didn't see them in Noto Town or Suzu City. Of course, it could be the week after the downpours.
If you want to support Noto or interact with people, you don't necessarily need to come as a volunteer. If you don't feel comfortable with the words "tourism" or "travel," just "visit."
In the three-part Oku Noto Report, we delivered the Oku Noto Report in order to convey that there are many places that travelers should visit in Noto today. In the future, we look forward to the dissemination of information from people visiting Noto.